Linny’s, a Near-Perfect Michelin-Recommended Deli Steakhouse in Toronto

I don’t want to give away the ending but Linny’s is probably my favourite restaurant in Toronto right now. Now, don’t close this review. Overly effusive restaurant reviews that gloss over imperfections are annoying. Nobody wants to go to a recommended spot only to leave frustrated that the experience didn’t match the bill. But with all this in mind, I still stand by my statement. Why?

The Vibe

In my role as a restaurant reviewer with Foodie, and as an expat that travelled for work, I was blessed to eat at some of the world’s best restaurants, including French-Chinese at VEA in Hong Kong, Southeast-Asian French at Odette in Singapore, and Asian-inspired North American at Benu in San Francisco. All to say, I love a creative restaurant with polished service and a twist on classics.

The aforementioned restaurants have between 1 and 3 Michelin stars and while Linny’s is not that type of fine dining (it is number 14 on Canada’s 100 Best though and Michelin recommended), some things about it made me feel like I did when dining at those places. Essentially, I think it’s the attention to detail, and elegance with heart. Any restaurant can look beautiful but when it’s paired with a story with roots and skill in the kitchen? Let me get my name down for a reservation.

The Table

I booked a Saturday night table at Linny’s for three and we were seated at a curved banquette in the middle of the restaurant. This table was lovely and I’d definitely book it again. It’s a good mix of in the middle of the buzz and feeling like you’re the only people in the restaurant, cocooned in a little shell.

The Chef

Linny’s is part of Big Hug Hospitality, led by Executive Chef David Schwartz. Other restaurants in his portfolio include Mimi Chinese and Sunny’s Chinese. To be honest, I’d been to Mimi once before and while the restaurant was gorgeous, I felt the food was mid. The execution was kind of clunky and the quality was just ok. And so I never bothered to try Sunny’s. But now that I’ve been to Linny’s, I definitely want to give Mimi another try, especially since they’ve done a refresh to their space and menu, as well as Sunny’s.

Chef Schwartz named the restaurant after his late mother, Linda, and I read he turned away from Jewish traditions after she passed but recently grew interested in Jewish food again. This honesty is refreshing, sometimes life throws curveballs and we might not know why we feel stirred to do or reconnect with something, but when we follow this leading, it’s beautiful when the reason clicks together. I think you can feel this heart and rightness at Linny’s.

The Food

My siblings live on the West Coast so this was our first time having dinner in some months. This meant we had lots to catch up on and celebrate, and our favourite way to do this is over a good meal. Thankfully we have similar tastes and ordered a few things across the menu to share.

We started with the caesar salad with chicken skin, parmesan, and carraway ($25). This was pretty good though not particularly memorable taste-wise. The chicken skin is a fun touch, adding crunch like a crouton, but fairly muted in flavour.

Whew the chicken liver toast with cured egg, fried onion, and pickle ($22) was a thing of beauty. It was perfect in that ‘just a little too much chicken liver’ way, falling over the edge of the bread as we tried to eat it. Need to get this again.

The potato dumplings with shallots, dill, and mustard greens ($35) was comforting and moreish. Was it a standout in terms of us wanting to rush back and eat it again though? Not quite.

Now onto the meats. We started with the Romanian, an Angus hanger steak from Famille Fontaine, Quebec ($49). This was prepared well. No notes.

But when the handcut pastrami, from Bielak Farms, Ontario came out, we tried not to fight for the best pieces. Gorgeously done.

Because meat needs potatoes, we also ordered french fries ($14) and the twice-baked potato ($17).

And we finished with the strawberry trifle ($16), a light, airy close to our celebratory meal.

I Would Have Loved It If…

I would have loved it if the service had been slightly warmer. We had a main server, but our dishes were brought out by a variety of other staff, and so maybe because there wasn't time to develop rapport, service felt formal and adequate but not memorable.

And I know I started this review saying my experience at Linny's was near perfect and I think it was as a whole. While I wouldn't rush back specifically for the food, it combined with the atmosphere and service, imperfect as they were individually, somehow combined to be one of my favourite nights in Toronto.

In sum, Linny's is expensive and some dishes might seem overpriced on their own but overall it’s a wonderful experience in a stunning restaurant with a unique menu.

Verdict

If you’re interested in Linny’s, make a night of it. Book the reservation in advance, get your group or date excited too, and wear something you feel great in. Enjoy your life.

Linny’s, 176 Ossington Ave, Toronto, ON M6J 2Z7