Esme, the ‘Everyone Is Talking About It’ New French Bistro in San Francisco, USA

When our Uber pulled up in front of Esme, I was looking forward to dinner but also curious… what was all the excitement about this new neighbourhood French bistro?

Usually, I love researching restaurants ahead of going -- from the food to the chef to the inspiration behind the name -- but in this case, I was visiting my sister and she threw a curveball. We were days from heading out on a sister trip to Big Island, Hawaii where we planned to feast and so we'd agreed to take it easy, but then she got an alert someone cancelled their Esme reservation and it was up for grabs so she booked it immediately and hey I don't need to be asked twice to go out for a lovely meal. Especially, not at one, I quickly learned, that was generating a lot of talk.

First Impressions

Esme is cute and tiny! With just 30 seats, it does feel like an ‘if you know you know’ kind of place, with the caveat that many people do know, hence the booked-out reservations. The signage is cute and retro, and inside is classic bistro vibes with leather banquettes, light and dark wood, pendant lights, plus a thoughtful gallery wall, and if memory serves cookbooks from local chefs. 

We settled into a table near the back, near the open kitchen, though the first time my sister went she and her friends were sat near the window and I’d also like to try that spot. Divisadero is a great street for people-watching.

On the night we went there were a number of couples on date nights, one young family, and a large-for-Esme stylish mixed group of six.

The Chef

Chef Susan Dunn is behind Esme (which means “beloved”), her first solo project, though she’s built a reputation for doing the classics well at various places including Pizzetta 211 and Pearl 6101, a Michelin-recommended California-inspired Mediterranean restaurant in Outer Richmond. She’s young (under 40?) and grew up in South Dakota, which perhaps is one reason why Esme feels polished and yet unpretentious.

The Location

If you’re visiting San Francisco and not super familiar with the city, it might help to know that Divisadero, where Esme is located, is known as a foodie corridor of sorts, with one of the highest concentrations of critically-acclaimed restaurants and bars in the city.

The Food

All of Esme’s current branding paints it as a “modern neighbourhood bistro” which could mean a lot of things but in this case the team uses French techniques and California ingredients. The food menu is a chic one pager, broken into five starters, one cheese option, one bread option, two pastas, and three mains, and there are daily specials. Here’s what we tried.

Daily special: corn salad (market price)

Fresh arugula, tomatoes, corn of course and hunks of goat cheese. Absolutely delicious.

Seared halloumi ($15)

A best-seller for a reason, paired with grilled stone fruit, shallot gastrique, espelette pickled fresno, and mint. As with the corn salad, every element was delicious individually, and stellar together. The shallot gastrique was so unique and tied everything together. Stunning.

Steak frites ($36)

What is a trip to a French bistro without trying the steak frites? The bavette (aka flap steak or sirloin flap) was cooked well and the poivre sauce was nice, but whew those triple-fried frites were almost taro-like in density and flavour, and sprinkled with flaky salt. I could have eaten triple the portion.

Stone fruit tart ($13)

I was originally drawn to the strawberry mascarpone bar but we ultimately decided on the stone fruit tart and if you like the combination of honey, cream, and nuts, this is for you. The base is a pistachio frangipane and the grilled stone fruit is topped with saffron ice cream, honey, and sea salt. My goodness.

I Would Have Loved It If…

Honestly, Esme was a lovely choice. It’s not vibe-y in the obvious sense. Guests are chic but casual. The food is delicious but simply presented (perhaps too simple, imo, in the case of the steak frites). It really is both an ‘I want to go out for a nice dinner but feel like being in glasses and jeans’ as well as a ‘I want an incognito cozy date night spot. The main thing I’d tell a friend who wants to go is that I would have loved it if the portion sizes were slightly larger. But hey, this just means you can order more things to share… 

Verdict

If you like to blend it with locals, Esme is the type of spot you should book on your next trip to San Francisco. Go straight from shopping in the Haight and have an early dinner (and check out a nearby bar after) or book a later table and enjoy a romantic vibe. 

Esme, 311 Divisadero St, San Francisco, CA 94117, United States, +1 415-660-7805