Ever-Evolving New American at Rich Table in Hayes Valley, San Francisco, USA

On my last trip to San Francisco, dinner number one was at Rich Table, a popular New American restaurant in Hayes Valley. And what a way to start. I am not a food snob, and will get just as excited about a good sandwich as, say, a creative way to serve tempura'd persimmon, but when I say Rich Table is still impressive after 14 years in the business? Well, see for yourself.

The Chefs and the Vibe

Rich Table is not named after a feeling they might want you to have dining in their restaurant but for founders Evan and Sarah Rich. This husband and wife team wanted to build the kind of restaurant they’d want to hang out in and one where the food speaks for itself. The result is a still booked-up, no dress code spot where couples, groups, and many solo diners come to enjoy exceptional food. 

My sister and I sat at the bar, and I think it’s ideal if you’re feeling social and wanting to meet new people. We casually chatted with those around us as well as our servers who were great. They were friendly, knowledgable, and not afraid to give an opinion – and I felt they gave special attention to solo diners who came in, making sure they felt welcome. 

If you sit at the bar, have a look at the photo of red radishes. There's also a hand-drawn red radish on the menu and plates… which, fun fact, was drawn by Chef Evan’s dad.

The Food

Achieving 14+ years in the restaurant business is not easy. In this time, the restaurant held a Michelin star for 7 years (currently Michelin recommended) and earned James Beard nominations for best new restaurant, new chef, and cookbook. But perhaps the greatest sign of its success? There are dishes people connect over, and come back repeatedly for, because they are that delicious,

Perhaps the most popular item is the dried porcini doughnuts with raclette dip ($13) and this has been on the menu since 2012! The most addictive porcini powder is dusted atop puffy, custardy clouds. While I tried dunking them in the raclette dip which is good, I prefer eating these on their own. Umami in a bite. Incredibly memorable.

The sardine chip ($4) is visually stunning and a cool bite to eat. It’s an excellently executed version of what it is though taste-wise not as memorable as the doughnuts.

The toro toast on Japanese milk bread ($25) had a clean and light execution, letting the toro shine.

I love sampling chicken liver mousse dishes wherever I go and this version spread on thick toast ($20) with fall herbs and apple butter was a beautifully fresh take. The sour-sweet of the apple butter against the fattyness of the liver worked so well.

Some of my favourite food memories of all time have involved sea urchin but I’ve usually had it in its purest form… never with cheese! The sea urchin cacio e pepe with tonnarelli ($32) was delicious though lightish on the sea urchin. I’d love a version packed with salty, fatty, orange tongues.

Perhaps my second-favourite dish of the night was the miso cod collar ($38) with shelling bean, gem lettuce, summer squash, and shiso pistou, I love shiso, so interestingly fragrant and sharp, which went perfectly with the creamy, earthy, salty elements in the dish.

I Would Have Loved It If…

This is a personal taste thing but on our visit, while we wanted dessert and asked for that menu first thing, none of the desserts called out to us. They sounded either too basic, too light, or too unusual.

Verdict

There’s almost no way you’d regret booking a reservation at Rich Table. The vibe is buzzy, the service is warm, and the food is both so creative and so delicious, evolving works of edible art in a city that’s rapidly changing life as we know it.

Rich Table, 199 Gough St, San Francisco, CA 94102