New menu review: Cobo House in Shek Tong Tsui, Hong Kong (update: now at K11)
Trying a dessert degustation menu
Though there are many avant garde dessert shops in Hong Kong, my favourite has always been Cobo House. Founded by Janice Wong, awarded Asia’s Best Pastry Chef in 2013 and 2014, the items served have always seemed thoughtful and incorporated unique ingredients - a treat for the palate as well as the eyes. Usually, I want just a bite or two of dessert, but a Dessert Degustation menu - with three full sized desserts and drink pairings - was too tempting to pass up. Currently, there are two menus on offer: Hues and Colours of Taste and Memories of Childhood ($298 for a non-alcoholic pairing, $398 for an alcoholic pairing).
Hue and Colours of Taste is the option with stronger, more sophisticated flavours. My favourite was the Strawberry Caprese, as the sweetness of the mouse and ice cream contrasted sharply against the tartness of the balsamic-cooked strawberries and vinegar jelly. I went with my friend Ashley, and she loved the Chocolate H20. It was a visual treat served on a beautiful painted plate, matching the purple coating on the crumbly mousse cake. The simply named Purple is the last dessert in this set, one of Cobo House’s best sellers with creamy purple potato orbs, tart blackberry fruit leathers, and tangy purees.
Taste and Memories of Childhood has more of a playful twist. The Popcorn dessert was wonderfully simple, with kettle corn crumbs scattered around a yuzu foam cake. We adored the presentation of Kyoto Garden, and the combination of lemongrass, orange blossom and pistachio. The Basil White Chocolate was kept from being too cloyingly sweet with the tartness of passion fruit and umami-ness of sea grapes.
As for the drinks, we chose the alcoholic pairing with the Hues and Colours of Taste menu, and thought each paired well. With the Taste and Memories of Childhood, I was so impressed with how interesting the mocktails were; I've had many mocktails in my time and these were definitely some of the most creative. The Popsoda was salty sweet with popcorn syrup and yuzu, and the creme brulee tea had a nice aroma. My favourite drink of the night was the Sabi Sabi, a thick smoothie-like drink with pureed apple and wasabi, though it slightly overpowered the delicate Kyoto Garden.
This degustation menu is best for those who enjoy their sugar, and want to experience fresh new ways to eat it.
8/12 South Ln, Sai Wan, 2656 3088